Has happened on MANY sony units, a couple Kenwoods and a Pionner or three.... like I said... not always the case, but does frequently happen.
Really, the power antenna wire shouldn't be a constant 12V as there is no need for it to be. I mean if you really think about it, it should only send 2 signals, on and off. When the stereo comes on, it sends a signal for the antenna to go up. When the stereo goes off, it shorts that signal and allows the motor to go down.
Now I don't know how power antennas electronically work..... but it would seem that it is some form of time delay, where if the motor does not see a charge for a defined period of time, the antenna goes down.
If this is true, this would explain why the power antenna wire is not the optimal wire to run an amps remote lead on.
Anyways.... about this guys question... look...just take notes:
You have an amp, 2 subs a couple of door speakers and some wire. Let's assume you have a 2 channel amp, and single voice coil subwoofers. In a 2 channel amp setup, DVC and SVC will be hooked the same.
Run a power wire from the battery to the trunk. Label it 12V+.
Run a small remote wire either from the back of the head unit, or the fuse box (see my other post for which fuses) to the back of the trunk. You won't have to label this wire, as there will only be one like it.
While you are in the dash, you might as well go ahead and connect the RCAs to the baack of the head unit and run them to the trunk. Be sure that when you are running these wires, you have them on the opposite side of the vehicle as your power wire.... as that could cause a pulsing type of interference.
Look around in your trunk, for any large bolts or screws. This will be your ground location. I have always found that the bolts that hold the seatbelt and rear seat in work the best. Make sure the metal is bare and then connect the wire to that bolt. Make sure the ground is tightly connected, as any movement or disconnection could spell disaster for your amplifier. Lable this wire with a strip of black tape, or just simply 12V-...
OK.... Now collect all your wires to one side of the trunk. It's time to set your subs in. but before you do, it's usually easier to connect the speaker wire to the sub box, BEFORE you set it in the car. So if you have wire with +, and - labled, use it. If not, make sure you label which wires are positive and ground. Typically, the red terminal cup is positive and the black negative. Set the subs in the car.
Now place the amp in. You could screw it to the box, back of the seat, or maybe just have it lay in the trunk. Whatvere you do, before you do it, connect all the wires. Connect the wire form the battery to the big connector that says 12V +, or something along those lines. Hook your little wire from the fuse box to the REM terminal. Hook your ground connected in the trunk to the Neg or - terminal.
Now hooking up your subs. On a two channel amp, your best bet is to hook a sub to each channel. So wire the positives of each sub, to the respective positives on the amp, and so on with the negatives.
Now just connect your RCA cables from the back of the head unit.
Now adjusting amp settings.
The crosoover selector should be set on LPF or low pass filter. The freq. should be set from 70 to 100hz... I wouldn't go any higher than 100hz as the sound gets real ugly. The gain or level, should be set approx. 2/3 full. This can be adjusted for fine tuning, but as a ball-park figure... I would go with this.
And welcome to your brand new car audio system.